England, it’s probably one of the most derided places to surf on the planet. It’s fickle, it’s seas are shallow, and we have Ireland in the way. But when a country is your home you make the most of it, and you get very patient. I’m not sure if what I’m about to say qualifies me as lucky, or just mad, but having been the editor of a surf mag there, and for a lot of my life not being able to travel much further than our own coasts, I have seen pretty much every good wave as good as it gets.
That may seem a little arrogant, but 15 or so years driving various cars up and down the east coast and around the south west peninsula, chasing ghost swells, scoring real swells and getting to work with some truly inspirational surfers has led to these shots and tales. Surfers willing to pull on full suits in a gale, for a wind blown semi wedgie beach break, willing to drive through heavy snow to be the only one at a heaving slab that works hardly ever, and willing to keep checking a spot, swell after swell just incase it breaks.
It all adds up to some epic tales, some pretty incredible photography and a look into English surfing life, which includes some of the most forward thinking environmentalists on the planet, we may not lead the surfing world in surf, but we do when it comes to protecting the ocean.
Grab a copy and help us take the movie on tour below, or grab one on my photo site – .