The perfection is in the patience. When I was told this I thought it was the dumbest thing I’d ever heard, but the guy who told me, a Kiwi I met in Fiji, was older and wiser than I at the time and he was right. The sweetest waves to score are those which require most patience to score. These five are fickle, remote and random pieces of surfing real estate, but totally worth waiting for.
- Drop Box
Somewhere, a long boat or ski ride in British Columbia is Drop Box. A heaving right hand slab pioneered by the likes of Raph Bruhwiler and Pete Devries. I travelled to Canada twice to get it like this, sat in the wilderness for four weeks, living with four friends and some bears, but it is so worth it.
2. Unstad – Lofoten Islands
It’s not a lack of swell up here, but a lack of the right conditions all coming together, the point is perfectly foiled but the facts are this is the Arctic and part of the thrill is the wait for the right conditions.
3. Number Tens – Scotland
Wind, tide and swell direction all have to be perfect for No.10 and even then it may decide it just doesn’t want to work. It’s the ficklest wave I know, you keep going back on the same conditions and it changes every time. But those days when it is just right …
4. The Slab, Iceland
This place is no secret, but I am still in no position to name or give directions as it’s far too easy anyway. What isn’t easy is waiting for it to work like this. Fourteen missions to the frozen Atlantic Island have seen it work but a handful of times, but when it does in mid winter light, it is the epitome of perfection.
I lived in Cornwall for 12 years and saw it like this three times, and not because I missed it a lot but because it so rarely gets so damn perfect. The setup is there, but the combo of perfect swell direction and corresponding wind is so unusual it rarely all comes together.